Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

National Taste of Game Week 2009

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Next week is a Great British festival of local ingredients. Game has been on the menu since hunter could errrm hunt and this is the height of the season for gorgeous autumnal fare. We are celebrating the week with an extra menu of game dishes, in addition to our current a la carte. The full menu can be seen online by clicking here.

National Taste of Game Week

British game is something that focuses the pallate on the season and also on what is available from our great countryside. It brings out the true craft of the butcher and the chef and this campaign allows us to share this with our friends each year.

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Cider – Part of your 5 a day?

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

OK, so 5 units of cider per day is probably not a healthy thing, long term. However, there are some significant health benefits to traditional ciders. You have probably heard of anti-oxidants. Basically, they are molecules that, amongst other taks, hunt down cell vandals, free radicals, and help to prevent damage which can lead to cancer and cariovascular disease. Research has shown that a unit measure of cider has the same health promoting properties as the same of red wine.

Cider apples

Somewhere about 45% of the apples harvested in the UK go into cider making. For the home grower this is a simple use for your surplus fruit and one of the more accessible. The main stopping points are finding a quantity of apples, a device to mash the fruit and a press to extract the juice. All of this is something a community can make arrangements on. The production of cider is ease itself; sterile fermenting kit (available cheaply at any home brew store), apple juice, yeast and maybe some ascorbic acid (prevents the juice going brown). If you have a friend who has the machinery and you have the apples, a simple barter of apple juice for mechanical assistance often works.

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Game – Market forces v Natural forces

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

The preserve of hunting has usually fallen into two basic camps, for food or for pleasure. My father in law is a very keen fisherman and in his mid 70s this is a hobby that gets him out, in all weathers, for fresh air and some relaxation time. I on the other hand am a shooter and this comprises removing pests or providing something from the table. Ask a farmer which beasts cause him the most grief and he would tell you; rabbits, pigeons and foxes. As a herb and nut gardener, with an interest in attracting wild birds, my arguments are against squirrels, crows, squirrels, magpies and errm squirrels. The problem is that half of these creatures are inedible and growers would probably need to bring in hired help to solve their pest problem. The other half appear in recipes and this provides the shooter with his pay for aiding the land owner. Rabbit, pigeon and latterly squirrel are prolific pests and a few sharp words will not deter them from ravaging crops.

A twist in this tale is that the pigeon, for some inexplicable reason, may be getting a hand out from one of our governing bodies. An organisation, you know who you are, put in a recommendation that a condition would be added to the general license for shooting wood pigeon that they may not be sold on. Luckily common sense or country sense came through and this was lifted, at least for 2010. The general licenses lay out what can be shot, when, for what reason (eg conservation, pest control etc) and with any conditions stated. They are issued annually and basically lay out the rules for general shooters.

If you take away the motivation behind pest control, there will be none. Land owners have held arrangements with hunters for over a thousand years in the UK and there was always something in it for both of them.

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Oh Deer, a Seasonal Dilemna

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

This is an interesting problem, we think we have discovered that venison has an invisible off season. What this translates to is that deer hunting has a quirk in availability. At this time of year, all male deer are available for shooting, but none of the females are. If you have a herd of mixed breeds, there is another complication as Roe bucks have a different season to the other deer species. What this adds up to is a nightmare for the gamekeeper, as they often cannot take a clean shot at one animal amongst the rest of the herd.

Follow this link for our homemade Game Season chart.

This is not a problem for our local grey squirrel population though !!!

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Hot smoked sea trout

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

While we are discussing creating and storing produce in perfect conditions, this had to be discussed. We like to create and preserve a number of our ingredients at 99 Station Street, such as sausages, ice cream and smoked items. This particular recipe came about as a request from Dan to experiment with some sea trout fillets he had bought in. In this instance we cured the fish in a dry cure, an alternative is a brine solution, to draw out much of the smoke resistant moisture and also to form part of the preservation process. After that we chose a wood to compliment the flavour of the fish and oak was decided upon. This was then hot smoked to deliver something, that after a few previous iterations, was right first time.

Fresh from the smoker

Fresh from the smoker

Home smoking is not a difficult process, it’s all about paying attention to the basics and learning about what works and does not. It can be frustrating as it can be a slow process to correct your recipe or method to come out with something that works just for you. However, persistence is the key as the results are repeatable, given the same ingredients.

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September – In season

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

The early Autumn delivers some great treats, even though it’s only one day in. Some of our favourites are wood pigeon, scallops and  beetroot. That just covers some of the starters on our new dinner menu.  There is also delicious Brixham crab in plaice, sweetcorn and fennel. To finish, some of our first batches of home made ice cream.

Autumn is full of strong flavours growing on bushes and falling off trees. This is the part of the year that produces the food that gets stored up for those long nights ahead. Walnuts will be ready in a few weeks and the last of the apples will have dropped by then. Plums get picked for jam and wine, which will be at it’s best in the Spring.

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Cool Gizmo

Friday, August 14th, 2009

Today saw the arrival of Dan’s new ice cream maker, which he has been dropping hints about for a couple of months. The lavender has flowered in the garden and he’s keen to come up to the house and harvest some as an ingredient. We are certainly looking forward to trying some of chef’s new recipes soon.

The next item on the shopping list is going to be something a little warmer, full of water and to be kept away from Dan. Hope you can keep a secret :)

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Rabbit

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

The rabbit is almost a byproduct of farming and country life. To many it is the scurge of crops and can spread, if uncontrolled to cause major problems with food production.  An upside to this is that the countryside does tend to react well to this problem. When you have crops, shooters and something tasty to shoot at, the problem can be kept to a minimum.

Rabbit is a lean meat and can very quickly be overcooked. Due to this it is easy to slow cook, whether as a stew or  roasted. While rabbit is classed as game, it has a more delicate flavour and can be easily overpowered by strong flavours, subtlety is the key.

Our own take on this is to use another great seasonal ingredient, wild mushrooms, stuff the rabbit and then sear before quickly finishing it in the oven. For extra goodness this is served on a salad of freshly picked watercress dressed with sherry and gorgeous local rapeseed oil.

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Asparagus

Monday, May 11th, 2009

The season for English green asparagus is only about 10 weeks. It’s a gentle vegetable with rich flavour and very prone to abusive treatment.

Alongside meats, cheeses, tomatoes and some seawoods, asparagus has the fifth taste, umami. It is also a great source of water soluble vitamins, A & C. To bring out the great flavours and to preserve the nutrional content, the best way of cooking is to gently and briefly cook in unsalted butter. A tiny sprinkle of sea salt before serving adds to the crunch.

Select your asparagus by looking for firm stalks, not too firm, with a strong colour and a closed head. Imported, overgrown or aged stems will loose something from the above. They should snap easily when you are preparing them without leaving a stringy mass.

(c) Wikipedia 2009

(c) Wikipedia 2009

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Wild Food

Friday, April 10th, 2009

One of my favourite pastimes is discovering new flavours and ingredients. Given the wealth of food that is literally in the neighbourhood, how much hits the plate? I would think very little as you can still see a lot of it there at the end of the season.

Wild garlic is one of those real treats and it grows everywhere, mainly around trees and in damp soil. The first hint that you are near a patch is the smell, very pungent and errrrm garlicky. Hopefully if the scent picks up, you should see something like this.

(C) Kurt Stueber

(C) Kurt Stueber

I always use gloves to harvest the leaves as you can never be too careful of any contamination from wildlife or domestic pets. Try and rip the leaves rather than pulling the whole thing up as the plant will keep producing and spreading for longer. Besides the stem and bulbs are very eye watering in strength.

Once you get back to the kitchen, wash the leaves thoroughly. You can keep the wild garlic in the fridge like any other salad leaf.

These are great chopped or ripped into omelettes, risottos or mashed potatoes. Mixed into some butter and left to harden in the fridge, you have a great partner to a pan cooked steak.

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