Posts Tagged ‘In Season’

January – What’s in Season

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010

As Winter is firmly locked in, the more resilient foods flourish. Those hard root vegetables are at their best, parsnips, celeriac, sprouts and turnips all benefit from the cold snap. Guinea fowl and rabbit are available for the well wrapped up hunter and some deer are just coming to the end of their season. Firm white fish are optimum; monfish, halibut and turbot. If you like to chew on what has to be the closest relative of the hairbrush, try conger eel for it’s firm delicious meat and the unfathomable volume of bones. Some of the real gems are the shellfish; cockles, mussels, clams and winkles for those buttery, creamery, hearty bowlfuls. Oysters will be fantastic at this time of year and certainly keep at their peak until after Valentine’s Day.

Much of the food used at this time of year would have needed to be stored, preserved or immediately available to the cook. Some of the shellfish and game were gathered through foraging or hunting, vegetables stored in cold, dark places and other ingredients dried, salted or pickled. Perhaps it is no surprise that game seems to go well with a rich fruit sauce, as jam making may have been one way of keeping the produce for longer.

Our latest seasonal menu is available by clicking here

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Local food, what’s all that about?

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

If you think the reason for local ingredients is to cut down on the carbon footprint or the food miles, then you are at risk of missing the real point. Buying local food is mainly about sourcing produce within a community and to ensure quality. I know where my butcher gets his products from; the farmers and the breeds. We know the people who supply the veg, the cheese, the wine, the beer and all manner of other great produce. The key is the passion. No one can produce great food without talent or enthusiasm. If you have consistent quality in your ingredients, which is what seasonality is all about, then you are off the starting blocks at a great pace.

This is nothing new and certainly not a trend. In my grandmother’s generation, food was within walking distance and was fresh or rationed, one or the other usually. My grandad grew his own fruit and veg which came out of the ground when needed. Fruit got turned into preserves or pies and veg often got pickled if there was too much. One of the things I hated as a child was gooseberries, I now have 3 bushes planted in my garden, happy memories are truly beautiful things.

Britain has some great food traditions and many of these are linked to the use of products when they are at their best or to extend their life. Pies, sausages, jams and pickles are examples of truly delicious British dishes and they are a complete wow when they have been crafted by passionate artisans. None of these should be created as a means of getting the best out of poor ingredients.

Look at local and seasonal for what it should be rather than for conscience. There are numerous products out there with badges linked to guilt induced purchasing, but do you get a good product and do you know it’s true source? A friend of mine imports some of the best coffee in the world, he knows the region, the bean and the grower. How does he ensure quality and welfare? Easy, he goes and visits them to see for himself. Great food cannot come from cruelty or misery, it just does not translate into the final product. Food needs nurture and care and that comes from the growers and the farmers.

Another simple truth about local food is that you have to deliver the promised quality consistently or make good on your mistakes, your community will not forgive you otherwise.

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November – In Season

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

What a great month. The leaves are almost all down and the fruit is picked and packed away. November is the time of the year when you know the warm weather has gone and those cosy nights are leading you upto Christmas and the New Year. A sudden chill hardens off great seasonal veg and the last of those should be coming out of the ground. If you can find any blackberries still on the brambles, then it’s been a mild autumn to date.

The seafood is exceptional especially oysters, mussels and scallops. They go perfectly with a celeriac salad and following by hot pear or apple tart. A good fish but a sod to prepare, conger eel is at it’s best. If you like a fish with more bones than a halloween parade, then conger is for you.

Given that this is now the run up to the Santa season, there are also chestnuts, brussel sprouts and goose coming to their peak.

All of this is pales alongside the game season and fantastic venison and guinea fowl.

The only thing missing is squirrel. There has to be some way I can keep them away from the walnut tree :)

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October – In Season

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

What a great month for food. This is an especially busy period for collecting fruit and vegetables, blackberries come in to prime condition about now and apple will continue to ripen. Nuts and tree rats (squirrels) are also in abundance, with the latter trying to reduce the former.

Wild mushrooms are at their best in October and go very nicely with the game that is available at this time of year. Fresh garlic, horseradish and delicious root vegetables complete these robust dishes.

Some of the finest seafood is  to include coastal squid and gorgeous plump scallops.

The Autumn months do not offer the subtlest flavours of the year, but certainly provide hearty dishes running upto the cold season.

If you are lucky, you may witness some of the last goose migrating, you will certainly hear them. Some have already starting flying over the last week and one commentator remarked that this could signal a cold snap on it’s way.

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September – In season

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

The early Autumn delivers some great treats, even though it’s only one day in. Some of our favourites are wood pigeon, scallops and  beetroot. That just covers some of the starters on our new dinner menu.  There is also delicious Brixham crab in plaice, sweetcorn and fennel. To finish, some of our first batches of home made ice cream.

Autumn is full of strong flavours growing on bushes and falling off trees. This is the part of the year that produces the food that gets stored up for those long nights ahead. Walnuts will be ready in a few weeks and the last of the apples will have dropped by then. Plums get picked for jam and wine, which will be at it’s best in the Spring.

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Asparagus

Monday, May 11th, 2009

The season for English green asparagus is only about 10 weeks. It’s a gentle vegetable with rich flavour and very prone to abusive treatment.

Alongside meats, cheeses, tomatoes and some seawoods, asparagus has the fifth taste, umami. It is also a great source of water soluble vitamins, A & C. To bring out the great flavours and to preserve the nutrional content, the best way of cooking is to gently and briefly cook in unsalted butter. A tiny sprinkle of sea salt before serving adds to the crunch.

Select your asparagus by looking for firm stalks, not too firm, with a strong colour and a closed head. Imported, overgrown or aged stems will loose something from the above. They should snap easily when you are preparing them without leaving a stringy mass.

(c) Wikipedia 2009

(c) Wikipedia 2009

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