Posts Tagged ‘local food’

Great British Food – 5 of the best cheeses

Tuesday, March 16th, 2010

When we talk about cheese in the UK, people often quote the rubbery white, yellow or orange stuff that was probably destined for turning into riot rounds. Given the lack of civil disturbance these days, we have to suffer low velocity hits to the head instead, by eating the stuff. Let’s put the record straight here, Great Britain now offers more choice of cheese than France. The base of much of the low opinion of British food goes back to the last war. Dairy supply was rationed and the Ministry of Food insisted that cheese production was limited to a few options that could be mass manufactured.

After rationing ceased and attitudes started to change, a small handful of craftsfolk started to rebuild the supply of traditional British cheeses. Europe took note of what we could do and through the efforts of governments working together, there is now recognition. Great Britain holds the highest EU status of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for 11 of it’s cheeses. This means that the manufacture of the product and the sourcing of raw materials are maintained within a set geographical area. Also the traditional production methods are set by law for the cheese to receive it’s official stamp of approval.

Within our immediate region, we have 5 of the 11; Buxton Blue, Dovedale, Staffordshire, Blue Stilton and White Stilton. The last two are limited to production in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire alone. This leaves Staffordshire with 3 of the 11, Great British Cheeses. This may not sound much. The main reasons are that most British cheese makers have missed the boat on EU protection (Lancashire, Cheshire, most Cheddar etc), cannot afford the certification or don’t want to upset our continental cousins.

The most famous output of Burton, is beer, or the other stuff that comes after all the beer goodness has been taken out … love it or hate it. Beer is basically, please forgive me brewers, stuff from the field, put into tanks and mixed with bugs, warmed and left for a while. Cheese is basically, stuff from the field, put into the tanks and mixed with bugs as well. That is by no means derogatory, it’s science through and through. Someone in the 12th century in Burton, discovered how to mix water, grain and spores with alchemical accuracy to produce consistently, the beer we are famous for. Cheese is not much different and often produced by the same passionate artisans as the beer. It’s on your doorstep folks, time to discover Great, British produce.

[del.icio.us] [Digg] [Facebook] [Google] [LinkedIn] [Reddit] [StumbleUpon] [Technorati] [Twitter] [Windows Live] [Yahoo!] [Email]

Local food, what’s all that about?

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

If you think the reason for local ingredients is to cut down on the carbon footprint or the food miles, then you are at risk of missing the real point. Buying local food is mainly about sourcing produce within a community and to ensure quality. I know where my butcher gets his products from; the farmers and the breeds. We know the people who supply the veg, the cheese, the wine, the beer and all manner of other great produce. The key is the passion. No one can produce great food without talent or enthusiasm. If you have consistent quality in your ingredients, which is what seasonality is all about, then you are off the starting blocks at a great pace.

This is nothing new and certainly not a trend. In my grandmother’s generation, food was within walking distance and was fresh or rationed, one or the other usually. My grandad grew his own fruit and veg which came out of the ground when needed. Fruit got turned into preserves or pies and veg often got pickled if there was too much. One of the things I hated as a child was gooseberries, I now have 3 bushes planted in my garden, happy memories are truly beautiful things.

Britain has some great food traditions and many of these are linked to the use of products when they are at their best or to extend their life. Pies, sausages, jams and pickles are examples of truly delicious British dishes and they are a complete wow when they have been crafted by passionate artisans. None of these should be created as a means of getting the best out of poor ingredients.

Look at local and seasonal for what it should be rather than for conscience. There are numerous products out there with badges linked to guilt induced purchasing, but do you get a good product and do you know it’s true source? A friend of mine imports some of the best coffee in the world, he knows the region, the bean and the grower. How does he ensure quality and welfare? Easy, he goes and visits them to see for himself. Great food cannot come from cruelty or misery, it just does not translate into the final product. Food needs nurture and care and that comes from the growers and the farmers.

Another simple truth about local food is that you have to deliver the promised quality consistently or make good on your mistakes, your community will not forgive you otherwise.

[del.icio.us] [Digg] [Facebook] [Google] [LinkedIn] [Reddit] [StumbleUpon] [Technorati] [Twitter] [Windows Live] [Yahoo!] [Email]

Local food on the road Part 2

Thursday, November 26th, 2009

This week I have had the pleasure of being in Bristol, a city in the midst of some very proud and capable food producers. Apart from some amazing local ciders and beers, there are cheeses, sausages and great meat. One of the highlights was visiting a pub were there are photos on the wall of one of the owners foraging for mushrooms, shooting and fishing. It’s moments like this that make you realise that the understanding of food does not start with removing the packaging, a few steps back in fact. Chefs, restraurateurs and guests would benefit amazingly from seeing food at it’s harvest or in it’s creation.

Going to a small scale artisan cheesemaker (Staffordshire Cheese) and seeing the process, is an eye opener. This is a craft and not something that can be done well by machine, even though it’s a very accurate process, there is touch and taste involved too. One of my colleagues got to mentioning about aged beef and that is pretty much the start of one of my rants about the mistreatment and the false economy is mass managed young beef and the tasteless results that a premature life of poor feed and bulking has produced.

You need great raw ingredients, a lot of skill and the right technique to produce a great finished product. Aged beef is no different, nor is smoked fish, quality sausages or artisan cheese. It was a pleasure to see many fine eateries in the city use Great local food, but most importantly understanding it. Local and seasonal mean you get the best, but it’s a fad or a gimmick if you don’t know where you are doing in the first place.

[del.icio.us] [Digg] [Facebook] [Google] [LinkedIn] [Reddit] [StumbleUpon] [Technorati] [Twitter] [Windows Live] [Yahoo!] [Email]

Local food – on the road

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

This week I am in Prague at a conference. One of the benefits of this kind of travelling is that you can spend some time playing tourist and checking what is in the bars and restaurants. I was determined to try and walk into the city centre, rather than missing the sights by using the metro. The thirty minute or so walk, was more than worth it, interesting buildings and finally the eateries.

Local food

The menu outside one place looked very promising, so I headed down the stairs into an old brick cellar. I ordered a starter which was advertised as a pickled cheese and then pork with sauerkraut and potato dumplings. This came out with a couple of local beers and was truly a great meal, though very hearty, the walk back would certainly be needed after finishing this.

Unfortunately, one of my fellow countrymen did not follow my lead, but ordered spaghetti carbonara. Sometimes I wonder :)

[del.icio.us] [Digg] [Facebook] [Google] [LinkedIn] [Reddit] [StumbleUpon] [Technorati] [Twitter] [Windows Live] [Yahoo!] [Email]