Posts Tagged ‘steak’

Menus, please the crowd, or specialise? Discuss …

Thursday, October 21st, 2010

Before I begin, I was raised as a vegetarian. My late father was a vegetarian and my uncle is still one. I have nothing against vegetarians, it’s a fair and reasonable, ethical or health related life option. My beef is with the bias of menus and the lack of focus across the table. There are various estimates of the number of vegetarians in the UK, but generally seems to fit at less than 3%. If you offered 10 menu options per course on a menu, you would expect to see at least 1 of these being vegetarian. Quite often, this is not enough for some people and they want to see 2 or more, non-meat dishes. I went on to ask one of the most famous vegetarian restaurants in the country if they has a meat option on the menu. The answer was of course … NO. My own belief is that we risk diluting our dining  experience if things are labelled in such a way. Why not call a vegetable dish by it’s name rather than tag it lamely as vegetarian. Put some effort in and create something delicious rather than a token offering. Many more diners prefer a non-meat option than there are vegetarians out there.

This however, is endemic in food everywhere. A good friend of mine rated a local Chinese because it did a great steak, the only thing he would eat there. This was not a Chinese steak, it was grilled sirloin served with chips. If John had said a steakhouse did a great steak, this would be fantastic. There is so much amazing food out there that is Chinese, Indian, French, Italian, Vegetarian, Thai etc, there doesn’t need to be scampi and chips on these menus. Food should be about uniting people, not about diluting bonds or trying to please everyone. I know a brilliant seafood restaurant in the South West. They don’t do vegetarian dishes, they have some delicious vegetable dishes. They don’t do a solitary steak, but surf and turf. It is a balanced menu and a vegetarian is not going to be disappointed with the off-handed dish of chili non carne or the like.

I am actually glad the vegetarian restaurant stuck to what they do, why would you want anything else if you have gone there out of choice.

Now don’t get me started on Childrens’ Menus … ;)

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We got Wiggled

Thursday, July 16th, 2009

wiggly_wigglers_logo

Heather, Farmer Phil and Monty from the amazing Wiggly Wigglers team came to record a podcast at 99 Station Street. Farmer Phil as his name suggests, is a farmer and he is scaling up production of very carefully cross bred cattle. He brought with him a sample of his 21plus  day aged rump and fillet steak for Chef Dan to cook for them. The object of the show was to close the gap between the producer the plate, which was done very well. We had a great time and some real fun chatting and discussing our food philosophies.

The podcast (No 190) can be downloaded from iTunes or in MP3 format from their website which is here at Wiggly Wigglers.

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The Perfect Steak

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

Does such a thing exist?

I spend a fair amount of my year working away and researching local hospitality and each occasion,  is a lesson in it’s own right.

The Worst Steak:
One chain served me a frozen young steak, microwaved and then touched both sides on something hot to give it colour. This lukewarm, soppy heap of string was a disgrace to the site and an insult to the poor cow who gave it’s life for some factory to incompetently represent it.

The Best Steak:
Strip Steak, Mandalay Bay Hotel, Las Vegas. Michael Mina is a very high end chef in the US and Strip Steak does him proud. This was an Angus fillet which you could have dropped a spoon through.

The difference?

1 Pedigree. Get to know your farmers and shop with the best you can find. Beef can mean anything from Kobe or Wagu through to mass farmed abused beast of burden. Well treated, long lived, chilled out, open space cows have benefited from top end welfare which is reflected in flavour.

2 Age. It’s OK to freeze fish and peas as soon as you have harvested them, but not beef. The aging process breaks down the meat through the action of enzymes, and not in a bad way. Gone is the cloth like soggy texture of tough cell walls broken by the expansion of frozen fluid.

3 Warmth. The steak should not be cold before the main cooking. Mina gently poaches his fillet in a mix of olive oil and butter to introduce succulence and warmth throughout. You could just allow your steak to rest to room temperature, but whichever method you use, consider the clash of temperature.

4 Seasoning. This accentuates the flavour of the steak in so many ways. This is another reason why temperature is important as taste changes completely within a few degrees.

5 Cooking. Literally a hot topic. Grill (broiled to our US cousins), frying pan, griddle, chargrill, hot plate or barbecue all produce a different flavour and each is important. Whichever you use, always check if they cook consistently and produce the steak your guest expects.

6 Resting. The steak has left the heat and now needs to settle to plate temperature. Rule of thumb is about ten minutes, but always remember to serve on a warmed plate otherwise your good efforts are cut short by a lukewarm experience at table.

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